Finally, there were those special moments, such as the joy at discovering the 998,000-acre Ellenbrae Station (a cattle station, not the railway variety), where owners Logan and Larissa baked scones throughout the dry season (June and July), making enough money to keep them afloat the rest of the time. “Last year, we made 14,350 scones,” revealed Larissa.
Between such encounters we took swims in croc-free billabongs. Bell Gorge was one of the first, resembling a wild version of an infinity pool as it dropped down into a gushing waterfall while monitor lizards looked on. At El Questro Station, where the beautiful Luxury Lodge of Australia is situated, the extravagance, for us, arrived in the form of a much-needed natural shower in the ice-cool waters of Emma Gorge Waterfall. Then there was the unforgettable Manning Gorge, where we were so mesmerised by its beauty – a cirque of red rock with water so clear you could see right to its depths – that we decided to swim back to the campsite, crossing mini-falls, battling spiky pandanus trees and guided by the smear of the Milky Way as night fell.