Travel back in time, slow down in the present and look to the future
Where it all began
If you’ve never heard of Diriyah, you’re not alone. For this is a region that has played its cards close to its chest; one drenched in mystery, its historical and cultural significance flying well under the radar. Until now, that is.
For those who know of Diriyah, you’ll likely have heard about its UNESCO-listed, mud-brick citadel: At-Turaif. What you may not know, however, is that this is where Saudi Arabia was born. The Al Saud family settled here in the early 1700s and, by 1727, the first great Saudi state was created. Set within the oases of the Wadi Hanifah valley, its early population took pride in cultivating their crops, herding animals, and gaining identity in the unique mud bricks that mirrored the land they worked on, and were used to build their homes.
Now part of Saudi’s capital, Riyadh, it was, and is, a place that welcomes intellectuals, pilgrims, and scholars alike. For centuries it was a cultural and heritage hub for the Middle East, trading aromatics, gold, and spices across Southern Arabia, the Mediterranean, Mesopotamia, and the Levant. It’s these roots, and an unwavering sense of dignity, strength and resilience, that make Diriyah a truly fascinating destination.
There’s never been a better time to visit. After decades of being hidden away, the birthplace of the Saudi Kingdom is being reborn, and the excitement is palpable…
Change is afoot
So, what does this rebirth entail? Well, the first phase of a $63.2 billion project has already been completed, one that has seen a thriving foodie scene emerge and historic landmarks restored. But this is just the tip of a very big iceberg across Saudi. Indeed, new destinations like smart city Neom, the Red Sea and AlUla are being built as we speak, in a bid to drive tourism to this oft-overlooked Arabian country. Centuries-old rules and customs are even being tweaked for the better including challenging archaic gender attitudes. Visit Jeddah and Riyadh and you’ll likely be greeted by female border force operatives checking your e-visa or visa on entry, which was unheard of just a couple of years ago.
These socio-economic reforms – 14 giga-projects under Saudi's‘Vision 2030’ projects – are the brainchild of Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman. Alongside the new builds, older cities are being modernised too, with hopes that this will attract Western business and leisure tourism.
In this place Diriyah once stood as one of the most important cities in Arabia. A settlement with global significance. It was here, the home of the Al Saud family, where the first great Saudi State was established and a Kingdom was born, whose epic history and fate determined the course of peoples and empires far beyond Arabia; a place whose ancient roots and heritage are now being conserved and rediscovered in ways that will resonate across the world. Think museums, galleries, restaurants, and world-class hotels that will see it become a global historical, cultural and lifestyle destination. When complete, it is hoped these changes will create over 55,000 jobs and attract 27 million visitors a year.
The present day
Many changes may be coming to Diriyah, but that’s no reason to postpone your visit. In fact, experiencing it
in its current state is an absolute must...
Architecture
With its palaces and urban remains, At-Turaif should not be missed. In fact, its architecture is so impressive that, in 2010, it was awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO. This hallowed inscription is thanks, in great part, to its mud-brick construction. Courtyards, towers, alleyways, and palaces all showcase one of the largest and most magnificent examples of the Najdi architectural and decorative style. Due to being made from locally-sourced natural material, the natural cooling of the material and the shading of the architectural style, this mud-brick method is crucial to the traditional Saudi way of life which is why the same method is a key part of the development happening in Diriyah today.
And where parts of the citadel was left in ruins after the Ottoman siege, they have been thoughtfully restored to ensure visitors can get a true glimpse into what life was like during the First Saudi State. This journey is best discovered on a 75-minute guided tour of At-Turaif, with walks departing hourly during opening hours. Or, to really get under the skin of the architecture, weekends promise mud-brick-making workshops, where visitors can learn and practise the skills, techniques and processes behind making mud bricks.
Throughout At-Turaif and beyond, the doors of Diriyah are an architectural majesty of their own – intricately painted, each one tells a story. Learn about the beauty and meaning behind them at a Diriyah Doors Workshop, or, for some broader insights, make a pitstop at the Traditional Architecture Gallery, which is dedicated to Nadji architecture and building techniques.
Relive history
With the citadel carefully maintained, and Diriyah’s history well documented, it’s easy to relive the past. This is where the Al-Nuzul Street experience comes in. Here you can explore 13 buildings as part of a live immersive theatrical experience, including insights into traditional medicine, historical schooling, the crafting of the first Saudi flag and, of course, mud-brick building. It’s an opportunity to step back in time, and see what daily life in the First Saudi State was like all those years ago.
Another way to immerse yourself in Diriyah’s heritage is by watching an Al-Ardah performance of victory and vigour. This famous dance listed on UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage list, and offers a mesmerising mix of swords, drums, and poetry. And, if you coincide your trip with the Arabian Horse Festival, you’re in for a real historical treat. It reflects centuries of horse demonstrations, bringing together riders, artists, and enthusiasts alike for dances, workshops and lectures.
Pause for a coffee
Coffee drinking, or Kahwa, is a rite of passage in Diriyah. While strolling the streets of At-Turaif, you’ll have ample opportunity to enjoy the Saudi coffee experience, not to mention the traditions and hospitality that come with it. Hot, home-roasted coffee is blended with warming spices and served from a dallah – a coffee pot with a long spout – before being drunk from a finjaan – a small cup without handles. Instead of sugar, you’ll be offered an accompaniment of Arabic dates.
Celebrate art and culture
Diriyah’s art and culture scene is best experienced through interactive workshops and immersive experiences so you can really get under the skin of the Saudi style.
If masterful penmanship is of interest, then a Khat Ad-Diriyah lesson should feature on your itinerary. This traditional Arabic calligraphy –an teach you a lot about the region’s customs, culture, and hospitality – not to mention give you a fantastic souvenir to take home: your name written in the special Diriyah font. Daily demonstrations run out of the Diriyah Gallery – a centre for local art, manuscripts, and artefacts.
Travelling with the whole troop? You’ll find an abundance of family activities here such as the As Samri performance, a joyful display about At-Turaif. Actors combine poetry, rhythmic music, and dance to tell the citadel’s compelling story. Children will also enjoy the Arabian horse demonstrations, where visitors can witness these majestic beasts in the ring, as well as learning what makes them so significant to Saudi’s story. And, if that’s not enough, a visit to the Arabian Horse Gallery goes even further to showcase the importance of the breed.
Evening entertainment
Don’t miss the fusion of after-dark entertainment and historical significance at Salwa Palace – the former ruling palace of the Al-Saud family during the First Saudi State and the largest palace in At-Turaif . Projected onto the defense walls of palace, visitors are treated to an impressive light and sound show; a truly theatrical experience, with seating and terraces that overlook the illuminated palace. You’ll learn all about the citadel’s poignancy as the birthplace of the kingdom, as well as what the future holds for this UNESCO World Heritage site – a fitting way to end your unforgettable Diriyah trip.
The future
Undeniably, history is a huge part of Diriyah’s appeal. Equally fascinating, though, is the history that’s in the making today. A crucial cog in Saudi Arabia’s plans to expand and modernise by 2030, Diriyah is just at the start of a very special reimagining.
Changes will see old and new coming together to ultimately offer a sanctuary for visitors from all walks of life. This is particularly true of Bujairi Terrace. With spectacular views the ruins of At-Turaif, set amid the lush Wadi Hanifah valley, visitors will be able experience the unique dining destination while still surrounded with traditional architecture. In fact, this innovative development is the true embodiment of Diriyah, built using the same mud, water, and straw construction as At-Turaif.
Guests to Bujairi Terrace are spoiled for choice with fine dining Michelin-starred restaurants such as Hakkasan and Bruno on offer. There are casual spots, too like Sarabeth’s and Brunch & Cake. If you are after a truly authentic dining experience though, look no further than Takya and Maiz which provide an array of traditional dishes. No matter where you choose to eat, you will be able to enjoy a unique Saudi experience that is not on offer anywhere else in the world, as well as far-reaching views from the rooftops.
Make it happen
For more information, and to start planning your dream to Diriyah, head over to the official website.
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