05 February 2024
A complete guide to Plitvice Lakes National Park
A mesmerising mix of emerald-coated forest and cerulean-tinged pools, Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of Croatia’s finest natural jewels. Here’s our complete guide…
A mesmerising mix of emerald-coated forest and cerulean-tinged pools, Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of Croatia’s finest natural jewels. Here’s our complete guide…
Main image: An iconic sightseeing spot in Plitvice Lakes National Park (Lucija and Rade Jug)
Croatia’s first national park is an extraordinary sight – 16 turquoise lakes connected by rivers and countless waterfalls. Wander along its wooden walkways and forested footpaths to discover why UNESCO-protected Plitvice Lakes was made a national park back in 1949. The lakes are the star but there’s plenty more to explore....
Plitvice Lakes National Park looks resplendent in winter (Lucija & Rade Jug)
Each season brings something special. Come in winter for a truly magical landscape of frozen waterfalls and snow-covered trails. When snow conditions are good, you can ski or toboggan on the gentle slope in the nearby village of Mukinje. Tickets during the winter months cost a quarter of what you would pay from June to September, although not all of the cafés in the park will be open.
Springtime brings lush greenery to the park, with wild flowers carpeting the forest floor and melting snow powering the waterfalls. During this shoulder season of April, May and October, ticket prices are double those of the winter months, but are still nearly half the price of the peak months of June to September. The summertime crowds have yet to arrive, and the raised wooden walkways are much easier to navigate.
During the summer months the park is at its greenest. Water levels are lower at this time of year and with the high demand, it's recommended tickets to the park should be bought online in advance. The autumn months are nothing short of spectacular as the forests put on a vivid display of gold and red.
Walking trails bring you close to the waterfalls in Plitvice Lakes National Park (Željko Mihić/Plitvice Lakes National Park)
Follow the signposted trails from either of the two entrances and you’ll soon find yourself in an enchanting limestone landscape of clear waters and waterfalls tumbling from incredibly green vegetation. Allow four to five hours to stroll along the walkways and wooded trails, starting from Entrance 1 in the Lower Lakes and leading to the jetty for the electric boat across Kozjak Lake. Then carry on hiking towards the quieter Upper Lakes where you can take the panoramic electric train back to either entrance. If you want a more energetic hike, hire a guide to take you deep into forested hills.
Hire a rowboat to explore Kozjak Lake (Shutterstock)
If you want to get closer to Plitvice’s sparkling waters, rent one of the rowing boats that are moored at Kozjak Lake. From spring to autumn, wooden boats carrying up to four people are available for laid-back jaunts across the lake. You’ll soon fall under the spell of those turquoise waters, luxuriant greenery and waterfalls. Apart from the electric passenger boats that shuttle across the lake, these rowboats are the only other way to experience the lake first hand. Just don’t be tempted to jump into the waters of this delicate ecosystem – swimming isn’t allowed anywhere in the national park.
While cycling isn’t allowed within the park’s boundaries, mountain bikers can find nearby trails for all abilities. Follow the lanes and dirt tracks that cover a 16km route near the town of Korenica if you want relatively flat valley cycling. For a challenge, tackle the hills between the town of Prijeboj and the Bosnian border where twisting tracks take you to an elevation of 1,350m over a 46km circuit. Somewhere in between are trails that lead you through empty meadows and into secluded forests, where rocky trails will keep you on your toes and wild strawberries cover the ground in early summer.
Lika’s rivers are ripe for watery exploration. For a gentle meander in a kayak or canoe, head towards the town of Otočac where the Gacka River flows lazily through the valley past riverside restaurants offering grilled river trout. Step up the pace a bit by joining one of the kayaking tours of the Mrežnica River based around the village of Zrečaj, where you’ll be led through the dramatic Mrežnica Canyon and over rapids. If that’s not enough of an adrenalin rush for you, then try white-water rafting in the Korana River, which flows from its source in Plitvice’s Veliki Slap waterfall.
Explore the peaceful countryside around Plitvice Lakes while letting your new four-legged friend do some of the work. Within a short drive of the national park, you’ll find several ranches that offer trail rides through serene valleys and forests surrounded by pine-covered mountains. Look out for deer, rabbits and other wildlife as you amble through this tranquil landscape at your own pace. There are trails that suit every level, and if you’ve never been on a horse before but always wanted to learn, ranch owners will give you the gentlest steed and guidance on how to get the most out of the experience.
The Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre (Shutterstock)
The pioneering scientist was born in the village of Smiljan, less than an hour’s drive west of Plitvice Lakes. Pop into the visitors’ centre to see the electrifying demonstration of the Tesla Coil, which takes place several times a day, before visiting the engrossing exhibits in Nikola Tesla’s former home. Next door you’ll see the village church where Tesla’s father was a priest in the 19th century. Don’t miss the documentary in the visitors’ centre, which is full of fascinating facts about Tesla’s life. The park is a relaxing place to wander, and its grounds are used for summertime events.
Cerovac Caves (Shutterstock)
Lika’s karst landscapes hold many underground marvels, and you don’t have to travel far to find them. Just north of Plitvice Lakes are the Barać Caves, which from May to October offer guided tours into this subterranean world of bats and ancient stalagmites and stalactites. The caves close during the winter while the bats hibernate. Further south in the Velebit Nature Park are the Cerovac Caves, Croatia’s largest cave complex. These should whet your appetite for the Cave Park Grabovača near Smiljan, where you can take a guided tour of Samograd cave – the largest in the park – as well as nature trails.
Lamb cutlets is one of the many delicious dishes on offer at Lička kuća (Lička kuća restaurant)
Embodying the traditions and the dishes of the Lika region, Lička kuća sits right in the heart of Plitvice Lakes National Park. The restaurant uses ingredients from the local area and makes products like Croatian basa soft cheese, sausages, bread and plum jam. These are used to craft hearty dishes like ispod peke (slow-cooked meat under a lid), lamb cutlets with herb crust, barley with lamb, tortellini filled with curd, delicious Lika potatoes and more.
Hotel Jezero is a fine place to stay within Plitvice Lakes National Park, no matter what time of year you choose to visit (Hotel Jezero)
Hotel Jezero is one of three hotels within the park and the only one that is open all year round. Many of the modern rooms have balconies with superb views of Plitvice. After a day’s hiking, unwind in the Jezero’s spa, with its large whirlpool, Finnish sauna and steam room.
For more information, head to the official Plitvice Lakes National Park website.
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