Spain’s iconic cities the sustainable way:
7 two-wheeled journeys to try
Spain’s cities are leading the way when it comes to sustainability, so how better to see them than by eco-friendly, cycle tours? Here are seven rides to try.
Madrid
With its grand monuments and world-class museums, it’s sometimes easy to forget that Spain’s capital is also now considered one of the world’s greenest cities, with parks and car-free zones aplenty.
Kick off your tour at the Plaza de Cibeles with its monumental fountain featuring the Roman goddess of fertility atop her lion-drawn chariot. Then head a few minutes south first to the world-famous Prado Museum (with its masterpieces by Goya, Velasquez and many more), and then to the nearby Reina Sofia Museum (home to Picasso’s Guernica).
Continue northwest to Madrid’s two most famous squares – the vast, 17th century Plaza Mayor and the semi-circular Puerta del Sol. Stop at one of the many cafés and restaurants near the square or alternatively, look out for Honest Greens – a locally run restaurant specialising in ethically sourced, additive-free, mainly vegetarian and vegan dishes.
Then carry on further west to the lavish Palacio Real (Royal Palace). From there you can either head into the vast Casa de Campo Park, just west of the Royal Palace, complete with a lake and zoo or head back east to the grandiose Neo-classical Puerto de Alcala gate and the elegant Retiro park.
Bilbao
When it opened in 1997, Frank Gehry’s landmark, titanium-clad Guggenheim Museum on the banks of the Nervión River put Bilbao on the international map. Several decades on, it still makes the perfect starting point for a cycling tour of the city. Cycle west along the river to the fascinating Maritime (Itsas) Museum where you can explore the city’s shipbuilding history and the regeneration of its shipyards. Then loop round past the space-age style San Mames football stadium to the Museum of Fine Arts in Bilbao’s largest green space - Doña Casilda Iturrizar park, a favourite haunt of local Bilbaños. The museum holds masterpieces from the Middle Ages onwards, from El Greco and Goya to Gauguin, Cassatt and Bacon. From there, head east to the cobbled streets of the city’s Casco Viejo or Old Town. Rest your legs over some top Basque pintxos at the cafes lining the cloistered Plaza Nueva. (The classic Café Bar Bilbao is one of the best.) Alternatively head to La Ribera, one of the largest indoor food markets in Europe and one of the Basque country’s best. Selling everything from seafood, cured meats and hand-made cheeses to wild mushrooms, freshly picked fruit and veg and home-made croquetas, many of the vendors are producers themselves.
Clockwise from top left: Madrid’s Retiro Park provides a green haven in the city; enjoy views over Madrid’s Casa de Campo Park from the cable car; Bilbao’s waterfront is a pleasure to explore by bike; Doña Casilda Iturrizar park is a favourite among both visitors and locals in Bilbao
Girona
The countryside around Girona has long been a favourite with cyclists from all over the world, including many pros, but the city itself is also super bike friendly with cycle lanes and many companies offering bike hire. Start off by Girona’s main bus and train station and head along Passeig Canalejas to the grand Plaça Independència and the nearby Rocambolesc – the Roca brothers’ artesan ice-cream parlour, before carrying on to Gustave Eiffel’s criss-cross iron bridge over the River Onyar. On the other side, in Girona’s dense, Medieval Old Town, head on past the Plaça del Vi and the restaurant-filled Plaça de l’Oli before heading uphill to Girona’s monumental Gothic Cathedral. Explore the narrow,12th century streets of one of Europe’s best preserved Jewish quarters, or head on past Plaça dels Apòstols, Plaça Lledoners and Plaça Sant Domènec to the viewing points in the 9th city Old Town’s walls. Then carry on to the Pujada Pedreres and Plaça Catalunya. For a pitstop en route or to savour the city at the end of your day, the tiny La Simfonia on the Plaça de l’Oli, a wine bar and shop, specialises in expertly chosen local wines and cheeses.
Girona's storied skyline
Girona's storied skyline
Vitoria Gasteiz
Teeming with Renaissance palaces and Medieval towers, not to mention exceptional pintxos bars, the Basque country’s capital - Vitoria Gasteiz, was named Europe’s ‘Green Capital’ in 2021. It has also been nicknamed ‘city of the bike’, as with the exception of its Medieval Old Town which lords it over the rest of the city from a hilltop, it is almost entirely flat.
Start off at the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca (White Virgin) - aka Plaza Vieja in the Old Town, and head south across Plaza del General Loma to the 19th century La Florida Park. Take some time to enjoy the fountains, waterfalls and botanical gardens before picking up the 3km, car-free, ‘La Senda’ pathway.
At Paseo de Fray Francisco, you’ll see the elegant neo-Baroque and Romanesque Fine Arts Museum on your right and the Arm Museum on your left as well as the Basque Presidential Palace. Carry on to the residential area of Armentia with its 12th century Romanesque basilica of San Prudencio. From there, pick up the city’s ‘Green Belt’ linking lush parks, woods, wetlands and meadows. For a smart dinner (or lunch), El Chispial Restaurant, by the San Martineko Park, specialises in sustainably sourced, contemporary Basque cuisine.
Clockwise from top left: Girona's historic Jewish quarter; Girona at night; Plaza de la Virgen Blanca in Vitoria Gasteiz; Cathedral of Maria Inmaculada de Vitoria
Segovia
Often described as ‘the most beautiful city in Spain’, Segovia’s many sights are conveniently condensed, making it perfect for a cycle tour. From its spectacular, almost 800 metre long Roman aqueduct to its fairytale, turreted Alcázar palace in the UNESCO-listed Old Town, you can see most of the sights, at least briefly, in a couple of hours. Start off at the Alcázar before winding your way southeast to the San Andrés Gate, one of the original gateways into the walled Medieval city. Then pedal your way through the ancient Jewish quarter to the vast, flamboyant, late-Gothic cathedral, looming above the city skyline like a domed volcano. Head southeast, past the Corpus Christ Convent (originally the city’s main synagogue) and take a moment to climb the steps of the Mirador de la Canaleja for great views across the city. Then head over to the Aqueduct itself. To refuel, the beamed ceilinged El Duque has been serving up the local speciality of cochinillo (roasted suckling pig) and top tapas since 1895 Alternatively, the recently opened Yum Baar cafe, less than five minutes from the Aqueduct, specialises in veggie, vegan and contemporary organic fare.
The Way of El Cid
Like Don Quixote and Don Juan, El Cid is one of Spanish literature’s best-loved heroes. Inspired by the Medieval knight who fought his way from Burgos before reconquering Valencia from the Moors, this signposted route sprawls over some 2000 kilometres through the wide-open plains, valleys and mountains of some of Castilla La Mancha’s most impressive countryside, as well as historic fortresses and villages. Divided up into 10 stretches of varying lengths, you can choose the right one for you.
For a day-long, 65km sample, the Alvar Fanez stage takes you along minor roads, from Castejón de Henares, about two and a half hours’ drive south of Burgos to Guadalajara, roughly an hour’s drive north of Madrid. Along the way you’ll pass through the walled, Medieval hilltop village of Hita. Lookout for the ruined castle at the top of the village and cloistered village square and if you have time, stop for a tour of the village’s underground caves. Recharge those cycling batteries with exceptional roasts at La Posada de la Rosa, a small local restaurant and hotel. Then head back out on the route to Guadalajara, with its magnificent Renaissance palaces and Medieval Moorish towers.
Clockwise from top left: Catedral de Santa Maria de Segovia; the famous Roman aqueduct of Segovia; Guadalajara is famous for its lavender fields; discover impressive ruins at Hita
Salamanca
With its honey-toned, historic buildings and lofty spires, Salamanca is known as Spain’s ‘golden city’. Its town centre is also conveniently compact so you can easily cycle round the key sights in two to three hours.
Start your tour at the railway station and head past the bull ring and football stadium to Salamanca’s world-famous university - an international centre of learning since the 13th century. Carry on to the ornate Casa Lis Museum with its Art Nouveau and Art Deco collections before heading on to the Cathedral Museum and the city’s two adjoining cathedrals. From there, the University’s historic College of Amaya is nearby , as is the magnificent Baroque Plaza Mayor - perfect for refuelling.
For top traditional cooking and the best locally sourced ‘Morucha’ Salamanca beef, Mesón Cervantes is the place to go. Alternatively, just two minutes’ ride away, 269 Gastro Vegan dishes up classy veggie and vegan tapas. Then head south to the banks of the River Tormes. Cycle your way past the impressive contemporary art museum Domus Artium 2002, before winding up your tour at Salamanca’s largest and most central park – the Jesuit’s Park, with its poplars, rose gardens and lake.
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