Eliza's guide to the undiscovered Mediterranean

Eliza's secret sleep

Anna Boutique Villas

With just two luxury villas, the mountain bolthole of Anna Boutique Villas exudes seclusion. Modern and comfortable, it was designed by renowned Greek architect Stavros Polychronakis, something which drew Eliza here… But it was the location that made her stay. In central Crete, adventure seekers will love it for its proximity to Kourtaliotiko Gorge, Preveli Beach, and Rethymno’s old town.

Eliza's three most memorable experiences

Minoan Palace of Knossos

Greek mythology is a huge part of Crete’s appeal. If you’re in it for the culture, Bronze Age Knossos Palace is an absolute must-visit, as it is believed this was the centre of Minoan civilisation. Admire its well-preserved mosaics and frescoes, as well as the former Throne Room – the oldest on the continent.

Samaria Gorge

Weaving through Crete’s White Mountains, the 16km route to Samaria Gorge takes around 6-7 hours, and is open May-Oct. Those undertaking the downhill day trip are rewarded with up-close views of the second longest gorge in Europe, as well as some of Crete’s prettiest landscapes: from winding mountain paths to black-sand beaches.

Sea kayaking

With over 1,000km of rugged coastline, sea kayaking is a great way to get to know Crete’s wild side. You can get paddling from the island’s big cities – Chania, Heraklion, Sitia and Rethymno – but if you have adventure in mind, Eliza recommends starting in Matala, a bay surrounded by caves.

Eliza's top Crete tip

"Easter is perhaps the most important holiday of the year in Greece. Visit Crete during this period, and experience Greek hospitality and family feasting at its finest."

Eliza’s secret sleep

Vasta Lagkadi Village

The beauty of Vasta Lagkadi Village is in its simplicity, and its unrivalled Greek hospitality. Owners Spiros and Angeliki will give you the very best advice, says Eliza, directing you to two neighbouring beaches – red-sand Xi Beach and white-pebble Laggadakia – as well as recommending day trips to the pretty village of Lixouri.

Eliza’s three most memorable experiences

Adventures in Mount Aenos National Park

Home to Kefalonia’s tallest peak of the same name, Mount Aenos is the only national park off mainland Greece. It protrudes from the island’s heart, its emerald forest a stark contrast to the blue skies, towns, and waters. You can hike, bike and camp here, but Eliza loves the wildlife: look out for foxes, ferrets, and wild horses.

Traditional tavernas

It doesn’t get more Greek than a taverna. Rustic and simple in style, offering local cuisine, run by local families – this is so much more than a meal, it’s a slice of culture. Try meats cooked on coals or the spit, washed down by a crisp pint of Alfa on a warm, summer’s eve.

Exploring Argostoli

The island’s capital is perhaps best known for the Saint Theodoroi lighthouse. Lovingly rebuilt after an earthquake in 1953, it’s a key historical landmark, not to mention a romantic one when illuminated at nighttime! For something really special after dark, head to the town’s Koutavos Lagoon, where loggerhead turtles hatch August-October.  

Eliza’s top Kefalonia tip

Don’t miss Drogarati Cave. Thanks to the vast size of its stalactite-filled Chamber of Exaltation, not to mention brilliant acoustics, concerts have been held here!

Eliza’s secret sleep

Elysium Living Parga

Perched on a hill in tiny Paxos floating in the Ionian Sea, Elysium Living Parga is like a readymade Greek postcard. Its traditional tiles and stone give it that quintessential Mediterranean look, while its panoramic views are enough to slacken any jaw, presiding over creamy beaches and the crayon-coloured town of Parga.

Eliza’s three most memorable experiences 

The deepest gorge on the planet

We know – you hadn’t pegged Greece as being home to a world wonder, but the magnificent Vikos Gorge is exactly that. According to the Guinness Book of Records, this is the deepest gorge in the world, relative to its width. It’s easily one of the country’s finest, most underrated, sights, thanks to its dramatic, Tolkein-esque landscapes.

Pindus Mountains

Remote villages, wild national parks, rivers, lakes, and unending adventure – the Pindus Mountains are a complete departure from the Greece of brochures old. But herein lies the charm. Eliza’s highlights include trekking to the tranquil Dragon Lake, or seeking out Ottoman-era bridges amid the forest-clad rocks.

Performances at Dodoni Theater

Once a place for undertaking games in honour of Zeus, come the Roman era, the mighty Dodoni in Epirus was transformed into an arena for gladiators, where animal fights and duels took place to satisfy some 17,000 spectators. It’s the largest ancient theatre in Greece and, since its excavation, live shows have been hosted here.

Eliza’s top Epirus tip 

Visit the town of Parga for some of the freshest catch you’ll ever feast on. Pair it with beach views at Taverna Stefanos, which overlooks the bay.

Eliza's secret sleep

I Mulini Resort

Creamy white brick, set against impossibly blue skies… I Mulini Resort is a feast for the eyes. Most importantly, though, it’s one for the soul. This is a place drenched in romance: a lovingly restored, 18^th-century windmill, with views across the coast and rugged Egadi Islands. For explorers, it’s a short jaunt from historic capital Palermo.

Eliza's three most memorable experiences

Palermo's markets

Absorb yourself in the colours, fragrances, and dishes of Palermo in its street markets. Vucciria is the most touristy, Mercato del Capo has a labyrinthine feel, and Ballaro Mercato is the oldest and recommended by locals. Head for the latter for some of the best street food – from cheese to sausage garlands.

Mount Etna cable car

Apparently building a cable car on Europe’s largest active volcano seemed like a good idea to the Sicilians! This rather mad experience (€30pp) takes you to an altitude of 2,500m, where you can disembark and wander solo (to 2,900m) or guide-led (to 3,320m). Fancy more thrills? Eliza suggests 4WD tours around the volcano’s base.

Coastal mountain road trips

All Eliza was here’s Sicily trips include car hire, so why not try out the tarmac? With some of the most picturesque coastlines in Europe, Eliza recommends venturing northwest for a quieter experience. The routes here are rich in mountain landscapes, white silica, and laid-back Sicilian beach towns – without Palermo’s crowds.

Eliza's top Sicily tip

It doesn’t get much more flavoursome than pasta alla norma. This authentic dish comprises crispy fried aubergine, penne or rigatoni pasta, and those juicy Sicilian tomatoes.

Eliza’s secret sleep

Hotel Chapel Number 5

If you’re looking for a bit of R&R without going too far off the grid, Hotel Chapel Number 5 is it. Equal parts charming and zen, this bed and breakfast boasts two swimming pools, a yoga room, and an enviable location in Naxxar: don’t miss the city’s Palazzo Parisio, an 18^th-century palace, beloved for its landscaped gardens.

Eliza’s three most memorable experiences 

Silence in Mdina

This beautiful, immaculate city earnt its name as the ‘Silent City’ in the 1500s. It’s taken the moniker seriously ever since: only a handful of cars can enter, businesses must adhere to strict volume regulations, and signs everywhere urge you to be peaceful. It’s an unusual experience, but a historic, authentic one.

Wied il Ghasr

Located on the northern tip of Gozo, this secluded sea canyon offers a magnificent mix of nature and geology. Think crystalline waters and very few visitors to share them with. This narrow gorge feels uncharted, offering abundant opportunities for hiking, swimming and picnicking against an unforgettable coastal backdrop.

Swimming in Crystal Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon’s lesser-known little brother, Comino’s Crystal Lagoon is a worthy alternative if you want to experience the same turquoise waters, rugged cliffs and natural caves – with fewer crowds. Fame isn’t everything: you can still snorkel and swim here, and without the hordes, the experience is all-the-more blissful.

Eliza’s top Malta tip 

Did you know Malta is an archipelago? Head for the uninhabited isle of Comino for snorkelling and walking or, for wilder adventurers, camping and stargazing.

Eliza’s secret sleep

Archondia House

A stay at Archondia House promises an authentic Cypriot experience. Located to the southwest of this island-nation, guests can still see signs of its 300-year history in the hotel’s architecture, as well as being offered fresh, local cuisine, or even e-bikes, so you can explore the traditional town of Kalavasos.

Eliza’s three most memorable experiences

Troodos Mountains

Home to the country's highest peak of Mount Olympus (1,952m), the Troodos Mountains are a wild swathe of green stretching right across Southern Cyprus, far removed from the coastal towns. Losing yourself among its cool pine forests, quiet mountain villages and monasteries is pure joy.

The ghost town of Varosha

Located in Northern Cyprus, the resort town of Varosha was hastily abandoned in the 1970s following the Turkish invasion. But no more. Recently reopened to the public, you can now explore the untrodden streets, past decaying homes, hotels and cars for a touch of dark tourism at its most compelling.

Wreck diving

Cyprus boasts some of the best diving in Europe. Indeed, experienced divers won’t want to miss the MS Zenobia Wreck – a Swedish-built ferry that sank off the coast of Larnaca in 1979. Those who venture up-close will be rewarded with plentiful marine life, from groupers to damselfish darting around the ship and its cargo.

Eliza’s top Cyprus tip

Visit Cyprus’ famous Blue Lagoon by land instead of sea – a more flexible option with your included car hire. Eliza recommends early morning visits, before the daytrippers descend.

Eliza’s secret sleep

Aldeia da Mata Pequena

Eliza defies you to find a more romantic enclave. Until a few years ago, the rural cottages of Aldeia da Mata Pequena were crumbling ruins, in dire need of restoration. Enter owners Ana and Diogo. Their passion, imagination and commitment to beauty transformed this into somewhere unique, draped in bright bougainvillea, its crisp paintwork unmissable against a green backdrop.

Eliza’s three most memorable experiences

Movie magic

Cascais and Estoril hold a special place in the heart of British literature and cinema. Indeed, Ian Fleming was inspired to write Casino Royale here in 1953, while James Bond was brought to life on the big screen in 1969, when On Her Majesty’s Secret Service was shot here.

Touring for tiles

Tiles or ‘azulejos’ are what make Lisbon so distinctive. Such is the capital’s love affair, that you can visit the National Tile Museum, boasting ornate designs from 15^th century to present day. Eliza’s favourites, though, are the ones that cover the walls of the train stations, restaurants, and bars – see how many you can count when exploring on foot.

Cooking up a storm

When staying in one of Eliza’s beloved quintas on the Costa de Lisboa, why not learn how to make the iconic pastel de nata, or maybe some mouth-watering seafood rice? She can recommend a selection of authentic cooking classes, led by local restaurant owners or hoteliers, and a must-try experience in this food-rich region.

Eliza’s top Costa de Lisboa tip

Charming Cascais and enigmatic Estoril are just 30 minutes from Lisbon via rail – simply jump on the Linha de Cascais, a regional trainline that connects all three.

Eliza’s secret sleep

La Quinta Roja

Paying homage to the philanthropic Marquis of La Quinta Roja, this accommodation boasts a courtyard, ancient wooden floors, and pretty water features – a real place of beauty. Eliza loves unwinding with book in the tower, or exploring the town of Garachico. With its palaces, monasteries, wine, and tapas, it is Spain in microcosm.

Eliza’s three most memorable experiences

Stargazing at Teide

Teide National Park’s clear skies are ideal for budding astronomers visiting Tenerife. And while this isn’t exactly a hidden gem, there are plenty of under-the-radar spots within the park that provide viewing points for around 83 of the 88 recognised constellations, as well as the Milky Way.

Cueva del Viento

As the largest volcanic tube in Europe – not to mention one of the longest in the world – trekking through Cueva del Viento (Cave of the Wind) promises a thrilling, unforgettable experience. Its complex, intricate cavities were formed by lava flows from Pico Viejo, part of Mount Teide, some 27,000 years ago.

Wildlife spotting

Whale and dolphin watching in Tenerife is hugely successful – but regularly overlooked by visitors simply seeking sun and sand. Year-round you can spot large populations of pilot whales and bottlenose dolphins. Eliza recommends trips off the coast of Costa Adeje, to the south of the island, for some life-affirming wildlife encounters.

Eliza’s top tip 

If hair-raising hairpins don’t put you off, the drive from Santiago del Teide to Buenavista del Norte shows off some of Tenerife’s best coastal mountain vistas.